Tartine

Rye-ing in the New Year

My bread has been bettered. By a lot!

I have just consumed the better part of a loaf of bread. With butter. And it was worth it. A good friend introduced me to her good friends about a year ago.  They now live in Vancouver, and own Bigsby’s Bakehouse. We liked each other immediately, and launched into foodtalk. And breadtalk. I finally made it to the bakery this week.  We passed by on our way to the airport, stocked with sandwiches, bread, brownies and cinnamon buns for the long trip home. The sandwiches and brownies were devoured in a minute. Smoked turkey skin, tomatoes and pea shoots on dark rye….mmmmm.  Tuna with olives, pickles amd cukes on delicious baguette….messy and yummy. Perfect brownies. Just perfect. We walked into the house and shared a bread. This morning we polished off the seriously cinnamony buns, and the final bread. Ok, i feel a LITTLE full. But determined to bake bread like that. Moist. Chewy. Deeply flavourful. With great appreciation to our friends at Bigsby Bakehouse, here goes, with a few adjustments:
For 2 loaves, using the technique and baking instructions from Tartine (refer to my older posts)
200g starter (levain)
600g Unbleached four
400g Dark Rye Flour ( I used pumpernickel)
700g water ( I actually added a bit more when I folded it the first time because it seemed a bit tough)
20g of sea salt
70g molasses
1 tsp cocoa powder
A small handful of caraway seeds if desired.
How it looks when first mixed

How it looks when first mixed

The dough is sticky and never gets as silky as regular wheat doughs.  Dark rye is not a glutinous flour. The “folds” are not as easy as the country bread, but it works.
After a few hours....

After a few hours….

Bigsby’s lets the final rise (after shaping) go for 18-24 hours in the fridge. That makes it really easy.
YUM.  My first loaf is out of the oven….here comes the butter.

Rye Bread #1

Rye Bread #1

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Bad Bread. Why?

Why is it in the culture of “heirloom” this and “artisanal” that there is still so much bad bread? I’m not talking about the stuff sold in bags in supermarkets (which I admit, makes great pb+j and grilled cheese sandwiches). No, I’m talking about the $3 and over loaves we all buy at our local bakeries.  No argument works for me. It doesn’t cost more to bake good bread, or take more time.

If you mix flour, yeast, salt and water, let it sit for 12 – 18 hours, you can bake a great loaf of bread at home. NO kneading, no mess, no fuss. The secret is a good, heavy oven-proof pot. Here’s what I use.

My secret to baking great crusty bread

If you want to see how to do it, watch Mark Bittman’s video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=13Ah9ES2yTU   Now you are done the hard part of the process! (Really.It is that easy!)

Recipe for 1 minute bread:

3 cups all-purpose flour

1/4 tsp. yeast

1 1/4 tsp. salt

1 1/2 cup water

For EXCEPTIONAL bread, follow Chad Robertson’s recipes. They are in a book named for their bakery in San Francisco, Tartine.  If anyone would like sourdough starter, e-mail me and I will send you some. Otherwise, it is a fun and easy project to make your own. Buy his cookbook for lots of amazing options. Here’s a video from Tartine’s site: http://www.tartinebread.com/video.html

Tuesday’s Sourdoughs

yum!

Martha Stewart (no comment) has the basic recipe on her site. Here is the link: http://www.marthastewart.com/907240/chad-robertsons-tartine-country-bread?NULL#NULL

Challah really deserves a post of its own. If bread could be a hug, this would  be it. Here is my go-to all time favourite recipe. Warning – do not eat it with butter. Or Nutella. Or jam. Or anything.  There’s no going back to regular, crappy bread if you do.

4 braid challah

Challah

3 tbs.                    active dry yeast (instant or regular)

2 ¼ cups               warm water, divided

¾ tsp.                   sugar

5+1                       eggs (room temp. if possible)

1 1/3(ish) cups    clover or other light honey ( or you can substitute part with maple syrup)

¾ cup                    canola oil

2 ¼ tsp.                salt

10-12 cups          All-purpose flour ( I use organic unbleached, sometimes some bread flour…it really isn’t a finicky recipe)

Directions: This makes 2 HUGE breads, or 3 – 4 normal size loaves.

  1. In a small bowl, stir together the yeast, 1 ½ cups of the water, and sugar. Let sit 10 minutes and make sure it proofs.
  2. In a very large bowl beat the 5 eggs with the honey. Add remaining ¾ cups of water, oil and salt. Add the yeast mixture and mix well.
  3. Add 5 cups of the flour and start mixer. (can add raisins now – 3 cups or so).  Keep adding flour until you have a shaggy mess. 2 options – keep adding flour and mix until you get a dough that is pretty stiff (almost done here) OR, you can let it sit now for 20 minutes – it makes the final knead really easy.
  4. If you are hand kneading, do it now. Add enough flour to get a stiff but not dry dough. Think of “baby’s bum” as what you want here.  If you are machine kneading only, keep adding flour carefully until you get the right texture.
  5. Let rise in a clean bowl, covered with damp towel for 2 – 4 hours. It is forgiving. OR let rise in fridge overnight.  If you refrigerate, it needs 4 – 6 hours to rise the next day)
  6. When dough has risen, punch down and turn onto board.   Give it a good knead for 3-5 minutes Divide dough into a multiple of 4. (this recipe makes 3 -4-5 loaves) Roll each lump into a ball, then pull the ball onto itself, making a seam at the bottom (to develop surface tension). Let balls rest 10 minutes at least (cover if they seem like they will dry out)
  7. Roll balls into sets of 4 ropes. Let ropes rest a few minutes (covered).  Add flour to roll the ropes if necessary to keep from sticking, but you still want the dough to feel soft.
  8. Do a 4 rope braid (pinch ropes together.  Number them 1,2,3,4. Put 1 between 2and 3, put 3 where 1 was then take 4 and put it between 3 and 2, and take 2 and put it where 4 was. Continue and tuck the ends under the loaf. If you need to see it, there are you tube videos.
  9. Put braided challahs on a cookie sheet with parchment. Cover with damp towel (or do egg wash + sprinkle with poppy or sesame seeds) and let rise 45 mins – 1.5 hours.  Again, it is really forgiving. Just make sure it is puffy and doesn’t spring much when you press it.
  10. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Do the egg wash and sprinkle seeds – sesame or poppy, or my kids’ fave, pasteurized or sparkle sugar.
  11. Bake for approx. 45 minutes. You may need to cover loosely with foil if it browns too fast.  Test for doneness by tapping bottom of bread and listening for hollow sound.

I just wish I could somehow post the aroma.